“Splish-Splash”

AT Day 21

Miles: 20.41

Total Miles: 375.65

(Unaka Mountain)

I’ve been excited for the opportunity to swim the Nolichucky River ever since I heard that there was a bridge wash-out and that hikers were having to either charter a raft across or do a 3.5 mile road walk.

It’s funny to me–neither option sounds all that bad, but AT hikers act like a 3.5 mile road walk is the end of the world or something. I don’t mean to keep saying that I feel like some of these people are soft, but it is how I feel. No doubt I would feel the same were it not for some of the things that the other trails provided me in terms of rough conditions.

So the wanting to swim across the Nolichucky was more to make a point than anything else. To be honest, the raft system that they have set up by the ATC is actually quite nice and efficient. I even stepped down to ask the lady operating the raft across if it would be okay for me to swim, and if she’d take my pack with her, and she agreed to both. I thought I heard her shouting to me, “don’t DIE” when I was on a rock in the center of the river. But when she repeated, I understood that it was “don’t Dive.” Which would have undoubtedly resulted in my hitting my head on a rock and dying or something. I had no such intention.

—

Sort of getting ahead of myself though.

Slept well last night, and had 6 trail miles to get to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel, which is right alongside the AT at the point where you load up on the raft to cross the Nolichucky. Apparently a lot of the hostel had to be rebuilt after the flood. The town of Erwin, just north of the hostel was really fucked up by the storm last year. Locals told me around 30 people died. The local UPS guy showed me photos and videos from the day after the waters dropped.

It’s one thing to hear about all the flooding and devastation, but to be here and see it in person puts things into perspective. I’m sure that I’m not the first person in the world to make that obvious observation, but it still feels worth noting.

I didn’t want to stay at the hostel, but I did want to wash laundry, shower, and shuttle in to town for a small resupply. It looks like it might be my last good shot at a grocery store for a week or so. I’m really bad at looking up trail at maps to see what’s coming though. Mostly I just go a couple days at a time. I know there’s at least something about 45 miles up trail from here that has a Family Dollar. I can’t say that’s my favorite store, but I’ve learned that it has at least enough to get me to the next trail town. When I do have access to these Food City or Food Lion stores however, I’ve really been stocking up on the fruits and protein as much as I can. I had a big ass burger that they made at the Food City today. Didn’t know that was an option before today and defiant.

I think a bear is outside my tent.

Not fucking around.

It’s definitely something fucking loud.

Fuck fuck fuck.

Okay… ran off but still circling.

Holy shit. Sorry for the profanity but that scared the ghosts out of me.

I’m actually shaking right now.

Shit.

Okay… settling down.

I don’t think that it was a bear, but maybe a fox or a coyote. It moved fast, and it was bigger than a rodent.

Jesus that scared the shit out of me.

Heard it rustling around in the distance, getting closer, and it literally sounded like it charged at my tent and bolted off when I started shouting.

I’m still shaking.

That one rocked me a little bit.

Where was I…?

I was talking about getting food. Resupply. A ride back to the hostel. And then swimming across the Nolichucky River. The lady who operated the raft said she’s called the Ferry Fairy, and she took my bag while I swam. In retrospect, I would do it again, but I didn’t like the part where I saw sheet metal from a building that was in the river. That was one of my fears going into it… and that I didn’t tell mom about. But I didn’t think it was likely. There was a little bit in there and it spooked me a bit while I was swimming across and getting washed a bit downstream.

Would do again though. 100%.

Dried off, and started back to trail.

Still ended up with 20 miles for the day, even with the resupply and refresh at the hostel. But a lot of it was climbing. Such is the AT.

I met a younger hiker, 18 year old kid, and we hiked for maybe two miles together and took a break at the top of a bald together. Had dinner with a few hikers and talked about this, that, and the other before I started back and up trail. I do that often, and just like tonight, there will often be one of them who asks where I’m planning to hike tonight. I always say I don’t know… maybe an hour or two more. I like hiking after dinner. They’re some of my favorite miles. Temps are good, belly is full, and there’s no fear of having lots of miles ahead. Then I tend to camp alone wherever I find a spot. Tonight it’s amidst a forest. The last few camp sites had small groups there. I like it here. It’s quiet here. I can type without feeling like I’m bothering anyone. I can rip loud farts. And only God can hear them.

Alright. I clearly need to get to sleep.

Wormwood. Out.