AT Day 22

Miles: 30.41

Total Miles: 406.06

(Yellow Mountain Gap)

God, I’m tired tonight, but it’s been such a wonderful day that I can barely be upset about it. Still I like to get it on the page before it’s gone, so worth writing with what energy I still have today.

That thing last night–the thing that I thought was a bear. I’m pretty confident that it was coyotes, at least a couple of them chasing one another around near my tent. I talked to another hiker this morning who heard them too, but was close enough to have identified them, where all I could tell was that it was something loud, moving fast outside my tent. Also makes sense why they spooked off so quickly after I shouted at them from in my tent.

Again–sorry for the profanity last night. They scared the peepee out of me.

I thought about aiming for a 30-mile day today, even as I was setting camp last night. But I thought that there was going to be weather today, and bad weather makes it harder to make big miles. So I sort of discounted it, but here we are now at camp, 30+ underfoot. It helped that the weather never really materialized into much.

Rained a bit, a couple of times today. But nothing serious. Not serious enough to slow pace.

Multiple stretches of trail today have been in beautiful, high elevations. High for out here is in the range of 5,500-6,000 feet above sea level, but compared to the forests that blanket everything below that elevation, the high stuff is nice. I camped in the fur trees last night, and got to break back up into them again this afternoon. And with the storm clouds, it’s just felt so massive and powerful. It’s felt like fresh air.

I met a guy named Smokey this morning, while I was deep into trippy-dippy mode, coming off the mountain after breakfast. He made some kind of comment about not being able to start climbs until he gets stoned. I laughed, mentioned the mushrooms and cannabis that were already in my system, and bounced around his sitting-stump for a moment. That guy was like so many characters I meet on trail. He told me “I’m kind of well known around the AT…” Then he went on to tell me a bunch of stuff that didn’t seem that interesting. He just kept talking and talking. I didn’t even sit down. I just listened for a few minutes, then finally said, “Well Smokey, you seem to have a lot of stories to tell, but I got a lot of miles to walk.” And with that I turned and went on my way.

I don’t know if it’s a good thing that I’ve grown so comfortable with being so confrontational and blunt on trail, but I’ve learned that 99% of these hikers are not doing anywhere near the daily miles to see me again. So I like the cool people when I find them, but mostly I find a lot of people who want to talk about the trails that they want to hike someday, or where they’ll go after the AT, or yada yada yada. A lot of people who like talking more than walking.

Sorry to be judgemental… but whatever.

Mushrooms in the morning were so nice today.

There for a bit at the first week or two of the trail I started to get the feeling that reality was starting to become slippery, and I thought about backing off of the mushroom stuff. But now we’re 22 days in, and it’s become something that has enhanced my days so tremendously. It’s led me to be especially interespective and focused through the day. It’s also led me to be a lot less tolerant of bullshit. It’s also made me more silly, giggly, happy, and playful.

It’s made me feel more wild.

I take that to be a good thing.

Met two guys at the shelter who were struggling. They said they were going to stay there to wait out the storm… I laughed, and looked out to where there was no storm. They pointed at the clouds, and I could see the look of fear in them. I could tell they weren’t going to leave the shelter today. It almost never ended up raining though. I bet they’re still in that shelter now.

A lot of people out here seem more into spending the summer on and around the trail rather than thru hiking. I know from experience that a lot to these people will be the same ones who say they “thru hiked the AT” this year.

All this says to me is that I have no idea what thru hiking is anymore… HYOH I guess.

Oh–those guys at the shelter. Forgot to mention–they proved that I am starting to develop some kind of telekinetic powers or something.

As I was about to leave them, one of them mentioned that they can’t find their tent pegs–that they lost them in the morning, and they have been looking all day for them. He sort of shrugged, acting like it’s not a big deal to be without something as important as that. And in that moment, something almost felt like it was glowing over my shoulder. I turned to my right, looked about 20 feet out in front of me by the vegetation, and immediately saw a grey bag, blending in with the gray dirt. “That bag of tent pegs right there?” I asked and pointed.

He was as startled by it as I was. He’d been looking all morning. And the moment he even said he was missing them, it was like they were a glowing beacon to me.

I started cracking up laughing. “What the fuck?!?!” I exclaimed. “How did that just happen? And I’m on mushrooms right now…” I continued laughing, got up, and started on my way down trail. Back into being wild.

Nicer temps today from the overcast and the little bit of rain. That made making 30 miles a bit easier.

Went off trail twice today. Once was kind of embarrassing. Made it a whole half mile (all uphill) before I reached a dead end where these people were camping. It was a bit embarrassing for them to tell me that I’d made a wrong turn a half mile back, but whatever. The views up there were amazing and worth it. No, losing trail wasn’t because of the mushrooms… even though I consumed more throughout today than I have any other day on trail so far. Maybe that did contribute…. lol. But we made it safely to camp.

Beautiful sunset this afternoon.

Learned that 14% of AT thru hikers finish the full trail. I like knowing that. It would have scared me if I were new to hiking still. I am not new though.

People ask a lot what was my favorite trail. They see the tattoos on the back of my ankle. I need to figure out an answer for them. I used to say the CDT, but anymore the CDT breaks my heart. I don’t know how to tell them that I don’t have a favorite trail. I told someone yesterday, “what’s the prettiest color?”

I feel more like a Coyote out here. I howl more. I howl a lot through the day. I didn’t do that at the start, but anymore I howl often through the days and through the miles.

I cried today at the thought of this ending–the AT and the triple crown. It was the first time that I acknowledged that I don’t want for this to come to an end. I think I’ll be hiking a lot more after finishing the trail. I don’t think that the AT will be an end of things for me.

Tomorrow into Rhône Mountain. I hope I can get a steak or at least a good burger.

Very tired.

Hikers chatting off in the distance.

Starting to get into groups that are mostly hikers whom I have not met before. Starting to feel like a bit of an outsider amongst the others I meet.

Going to sleep.

10 miles to town tomorrow.

Maybe to a hostel. Maybe back to trail.

Wormwood.

AT Day 21

Miles: 20.41

Total Miles: 375.65

(Unaka Mountain)

I’ve been excited for the opportunity to swim the Nolichucky River ever since I heard that there was a bridge wash-out and that hikers were having to either charter a raft across or do a 3.5 mile road walk.

It’s funny to me–neither option sounds all that bad, but AT hikers act like a 3.5 mile road walk is the end of the world or something. I don’t mean to keep saying that I feel like some of these people are soft, but it is how I feel. No doubt I would feel the same were it not for some of the things that the other trails provided me in terms of rough conditions.

So the wanting to swim across the Nolichucky was more to make a point than anything else. To be honest, the raft system that they have set up by the ATC is actually quite nice and efficient. I even stepped down to ask the lady operating the raft across if it would be okay for me to swim, and if she’d take my pack with her, and she agreed to both. I thought I heard her shouting to me, “don’t DIE” when I was on a rock in the center of the river. But when she repeated, I understood that it was “don’t Dive.” Which would have undoubtedly resulted in my hitting my head on a rock and dying or something. I had no such intention.

—

Sort of getting ahead of myself though.

Slept well last night, and had 6 trail miles to get to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel, which is right alongside the AT at the point where you load up on the raft to cross the Nolichucky. Apparently a lot of the hostel had to be rebuilt after the flood. The town of Erwin, just north of the hostel was really fucked up by the storm last year. Locals told me around 30 people died. The local UPS guy showed me photos and videos from the day after the waters dropped.

It’s one thing to hear about all the flooding and devastation, but to be here and see it in person puts things into perspective. I’m sure that I’m not the first person in the world to make that obvious observation, but it still feels worth noting.

I didn’t want to stay at the hostel, but I did want to wash laundry, shower, and shuttle in to town for a small resupply. It looks like it might be my last good shot at a grocery store for a week or so. I’m really bad at looking up trail at maps to see what’s coming though. Mostly I just go a couple days at a time. I know there’s at least something about 45 miles up trail from here that has a Family Dollar. I can’t say that’s my favorite store, but I’ve learned that it has at least enough to get me to the next trail town. When I do have access to these Food City or Food Lion stores however, I’ve really been stocking up on the fruits and protein as much as I can. I had a big ass burger that they made at the Food City today. Didn’t know that was an option before today and defiant.

I think a bear is outside my tent.

Not fucking around.

It’s definitely something fucking loud.

Fuck fuck fuck.

Okay… ran off but still circling.

Holy shit. Sorry for the profanity but that scared the ghosts out of me.

I’m actually shaking right now.

Shit.

Okay… settling down.

I don’t think that it was a bear, but maybe a fox or a coyote. It moved fast, and it was bigger than a rodent.

Jesus that scared the shit out of me.

Heard it rustling around in the distance, getting closer, and it literally sounded like it charged at my tent and bolted off when I started shouting.

I’m still shaking.

That one rocked me a little bit.

Where was I…?

I was talking about getting food. Resupply. A ride back to the hostel. And then swimming across the Nolichucky River. The lady who operated the raft said she’s called the Ferry Fairy, and she took my bag while I swam. In retrospect, I would do it again, but I didn’t like the part where I saw sheet metal from a building that was in the river. That was one of my fears going into it… and that I didn’t tell mom about. But I didn’t think it was likely. There was a little bit in there and it spooked me a bit while I was swimming across and getting washed a bit downstream.

Would do again though. 100%.

Dried off, and started back to trail.

Still ended up with 20 miles for the day, even with the resupply and refresh at the hostel. But a lot of it was climbing. Such is the AT.

I met a younger hiker, 18 year old kid, and we hiked for maybe two miles together and took a break at the top of a bald together. Had dinner with a few hikers and talked about this, that, and the other before I started back and up trail. I do that often, and just like tonight, there will often be one of them who asks where I’m planning to hike tonight. I always say I don’t know… maybe an hour or two more. I like hiking after dinner. They’re some of my favorite miles. Temps are good, belly is full, and there’s no fear of having lots of miles ahead. Then I tend to camp alone wherever I find a spot. Tonight it’s amidst a forest. The last few camp sites had small groups there. I like it here. It’s quiet here. I can type without feeling like I’m bothering anyone. I can rip loud farts. And only God can hear them.

Alright. I clearly need to get to sleep.

Wormwood. Out.

AT Day 20

Miles: 18.93

Total Miles: 355.24

(North of No Business Knob Shelter)

So much happened today that it feels odd that it all took place in just one day. It feels more like a week. But that feeling comes up when you combine town chores (especially like today’s) with part of the day spent on trail.

I wish that I could have slept better last night. My watch reads that I slept well, but I tossed and turned a lot. It was my first night sleeping outside of my tent in a designated camping area set up by the hostel. They wanted $40 for a bunk but $15 for camping… and with all the other expenses lately, camping under an awning made sense to me.

I decided this morning that I wasn’t going to go back to trail until I got to see a doctor and another prescription for antibiotics. My left shin is still too much of a concern and hurting too much to ignore. It’s been seven days now since I started the Doxy script, but it didn’t do enough. So instead of going back to trail, I shuttled into town, went to an urgent care, got two new prescriptions written that will hopefully bring this issue to resolution, and then back to the hostel, then back to the trail.

Even writing it all out sounds like a lot. It took almost 4 hours… I was hoping for much less. But it could have been more. And I’d like to add that the gal running the hostel, Amy, was super-extremely awesome and helpful!She shuttled me to the Urgent Care, waited in the van while I had my appt with a doctor, and did the same while I got my script filled. I tipped her and she acted like such a thing never happens. Whatever. I hope that I’m wrong. But either way, she was super helpful in my day today.

It rained this morning while I was at my doctor’s appt, but by the time I got to trail (noon), it was mostly cleared off. The temps weren’t as bad today as they were yesterday because of the rain, but it was still a bit warm. There was also quite a climb out from Sam’s Gap, where I stared the hike today, but it led to a beautiful view at the top of Big Bald.

I met another hiker up there who had been at the hostel last night. His story is his own to tell, but the part that he had shared with me was really moving. He’d had a buddy who had wanted to hike the AT, who was killed by a drunk driver last year. Long story made short, it’s the reason why he’s on trail–carrying a lot of that guy’s gear. We started into conversation last night at the hostel when I commented on his tattoos. He has some incredible and extensive work.

He’d been up at the top of Big Bald for two hours, he told me. Hanging out like that from time to time might do me some good, but I’m never really all that good at it. A lot of hikers comment on my having “a lot of energy.” And I get it I guess… but I also sometimes wish that I were better at sitting down and didn’t feel like I needed to be doing 200 pushups a day, or whatever the count is supposed to be. I got 180 today.

There were two dogs that came at me and scared the absolute shit out of me today. I was definitely in a bit of a trippy-dippy part of my morning, and these two dogs approached from up the road. They both had collars on, one big dog and one little one. And as the big one was about 10 feet away from me, he freaked the fuck out and started violently barking at me. I don’t mean to be profane, but it scared the absolute shit out of me! I was backing away, swinging both my hiking poles at the big one, and screaming at him to fuck off. Then these two ladies came bounding down trail yelling at me and the dogs. I screamed at them, “Not fucking cool, dude! Not fucking cool!” And they told me that the dogs weren’t theirs, but they had just been following them up trail for the last few miles… makes almost no sense to me. I asked, as they got closer, if they were going to go back to where those dogs were, as I was worried about their safety, but they both told me that the dogs liked them and that they weren’t a problem for them. So I guess it was just me…

Oh… Big Bald again. We were up there together as the storms were rolling in again. It was incredible. I have said several times that “THIS” is the best view that I’ve had on the AT so far, but really that’s hard to say because there aren’t really any great views on this trail… at least not up to here. Today’s was better than what I’ve seen so far though. And as a bonus, it wasn’t all clouded out, like Max Patch had been. There were amazing clouds all about and thunder in the distance though. I asked the guy who I met up there how long he thought until that weather started hitting us. He said an hour, but I decided to head back down trail and not risk it. I’ve already been hit by lightning while under the influence of a psychedelic once in my life… don’t need to see it happen again out here.

Hung out at the next shelter with some hikers for a bit. Got a short workout in. They were all staying there for the night. I wanted to get more miles in. In their defense, they probably would have been too, were it not for the storm rolling in.

When the rain hit today it was torrential. The trail turned into a river for an hour or so. I was fortunate that I got my rain gear all the way on before it hit, but just barely. At first I just put on my rain jacket, then put my pack on. But immediately I reconsidered, dropped pack again, put on rain pants, and went back to trail. It was a good decision. The rain was violent.

The lightning was bad too. And it spooked me for about five minutes while i had to go over the top of a ridge at the beginning. But after that ridge it was going to be all downhill and into lower elevations, so it felt worth the risk to me. I feel like I made the right decision.

Other than my feet, mostly I stayed dry. My feet were of course soaked through and through, but most of the rest of my gear stayed pretty dry. I do have a new rain jacket that’s being mailed up trail in three days. It’s a jacket I’ve had for some time, but it’s much more sturdy than the light weight one I have with me now. I like my little light jacket, but I know that there will be a lot of rain up ahead, and I’m willing to carry just a bit more weight if it means staying more dry.

Happy to report that my shin feels even better today–likely a result of getting meds. I’m hopeful that this next 7 day cycle will completely knock out the infection that knocked ME out for several days last week.

Otherwise, that’s about all I’ve got for the day.

Storm cleared into a stunning evening with wonderful temperatures. I ended up hiking to the next shelter to have dinner, but most of the hikers were already well asleep by the time I got there just after sunset. Still, I had dehydrated potatoes and peanut butter pretzles, hiked back down trail .2 miles because I missed my last opportunity to refill on water for the next 6 miles, and then did just a bit more distance to find the camp sight I’m at now. I was planning to camp somewhere around the shelter, but after getting there late, I didn’t like the feeling I was getting from the other hikers and didn’t want to make noise setting up my tent and writing my journal tonight. Glad that I carried on.

Tomorrow I’ll hike into the city of Erwin (same town I shuttled to for the doctor visit today), have a short resupply, and then cross a river… there will be more to say about that when it comes.

Last year the flood completely washed away a major bridge across a big big water way. Now the ACT offers raft rides across, but I’ve heard rumors that it might be possible to swim across. Not sure. But if it is, then I may ask them to carry my back by raft, and I may try swimming it.

We’ll see.

Wormwood, out.