AT Day 16

Miles: 24.23

Total Miles: 289.52

(Hot Springs, NC)

It’s funny to be looking at my painted finger nails typing on this little, compact keyboard that I’ve carried with me this far. But I’m happy that these pink finger nails made it back to trail today and didn’t have to spend another day at Standing Bear!

For all the love that I truly have for that place, God was I ready to get out and back to trail! There wasn’t much to do there other what wallow and watch the other hikers as they went back.

It wasn’t until 9am that the four of us were able to get back to Brown Gap, where I was rescued three days ago by the same guy–a host at the hostel named Struggle Bus. Unlike a lot of people involved in the things along the trail, he’s actually thru hiked, and I really enjoyed getting to know him. He also rolls great joints, a skillset that I have surrendered that I’ll never acquire. So the stay wasn’t all bad.

There were four of us who shuttled back to Brown Gap, but I was pretty quick to get out of the car and right back to trail. I didn’t see any of them for the rest of the day. For that matter, I didn’t see a whole lot of people at all for most of the day.

In the morning it was dense fog and some rain. The loneliness got to me this morning. Maybe it was the contrast of being at Standing Bear the last four days and always having others around, then being thrust back to trail by myself. Maybe it was the fog. Or maybe the forest that made me feel so isolated. It was sort of heart breaking for a lot of miles today. I found myself really lost in the things and the people in my life that are gone now, especially the people who are gone. There are a lot of course who I will see again, but there are some of them who are gone. And that was hard.

For the first half of the day the weather was wet and gloomy. There’s this notoriously beautiful spot on the trial called Max Patch that I went by today, but the visibility couldn’t have been more than 20 feet. So what there is to see up there I cannot tell you.

The pain in my shin is significantly reduced, but not gone. I had a steady limp as the day progressed today. Mostly it’s okay on the uphills, but on the descents it hurts like hell. But it’s getting better and I have the whole thing under control, from what I can tell.

How I contracted cellulitis infection is completely beyond me. I’ve been far cleaner on this trail than most any of my others before this, and I didn’t have any major cuts or scrapes as an entry point. Needless to say however, it happened, but now that I’m on antibiotics, things seem to be improving.

There were beautiful colors in the forest today. The flowers, the lichens, the critters.

I am growing to understand that this trail is much more about the forest than about anything else.

I tried to get into the town of Hot Springs today before 6:30 so I could get food at the local diner, but when i arrived I learned that it had closed at 2 on Saturday and doesn’t open on Sunday. Big disappointment.

The town of Hot Springs was pretty much wiped out by the hurricane last August, and it’s pretty obvious as you walk through. The town was a small town to begin with, but most of the businesses are closed up now. The few that are open are a brewery, where I went for a bit to see some of the other hikers, and a Dollar General where I got some ice cream and sandwich meat before heading to where I am now–the local camp ground. Fifteen dollars got me a place to camp, laundry, and a shower. Not bad.

I’ll probably be pretty quick to trail tomorrow morning. Might hit the dollar store one more time just to grab a bite to eat, but then it’s northbound. I think I have another 48 miles to the hostel where my Amazon order and my down jacket are mailed. I’m hopeful that they get there early, because tomorrow’s a Sunday, but they’re scheduled to arrive Monday or Tuesday. No rush, but after all that waiting, I want to get some more miles underfoot.

Wormwood.

AT Day 15

Miles: 0

Total Miles: 265.29

(Standing Bear)

Still at Standing Bear.

Far longer than I expected to be here. This is my fourth day.

Swelling in my left shin is starting to reduce, but it’s still noticeably swollen compared to mu right side.

Pain is slightly less than yesterday. Redness has mostly gone away.

I’m getting anxious to get back on the trail. Transitioning from so many days of hiking and right into so many days of rest has been challenging. But I was able to get some chores done while I was here. I’ve ordered some resupply for 75 miles up trail–athletic greens, Kachava, and LMNT. I also ordered a new set of headphones.

I’ve spent the day trying not to lose my mind, eating pizza, talking with hikers, and looking forward to getting back to trail.

I’ll head back to Brown Gap, where I was picked up two days ago, tomorrow morning. There are three other hikers who are headed up there too, so it’ll be cheaper tomorrow and it’ll give my leg one more day to recover.

This has been incredibly frustrating, but at least I’m finding resolution in a near future.

Wormwood.

AT Day 14

Miles: 0

Total Miles: 265.29

(Standing Bear)

I didn’t see myself staying here at Standing Bear for anywhere near this long when I hobbled in on Tuesday. But here I am, it’s now Thursday, and I’m still sitting here, wondering if it’ll even be possible to get back to trail tomorrow or if I’m going to be waiting this out until Friday or Saturday.

It’s been a mental struggle.

Fortunately the other hikers here are mostly friendly, the cost of staying is fairly inexpensive, the place is very 420 friendly, and they have pizza and (na) beer. Pizza and (na) beer add up after a few days though. So I’m sort of staring to go a bit looney. Hopefully recovery isn’t far off.

—

Last night was a lot of fun with all the other hikers here. There were probably 15 hikers plus the hostel staff. Camp fire. Most people drinking. I had a lady named Mamma Bear paint two of my fingers with pink polish and AT logos. Or I should say that she was extremely insistent that she do so, and so I allowed it.

It was the most communal experience I’ve had on trail so far, but it’s also hard because I wanted to head back to trail with most of them today. Unfortunately, my lower leg is still pretty messed up, and hobbling between the bunk house and the common area is about as much as I can handle.

I slept horrible last night. A combination of my body trying to fight the infection, I assume. As well as the absolute loudest snores from one of the bunk mates that I’ve ever witnessed. It would not have been inappropriate to call for medical assistance to make sure this guy wasn’t actively dying. But after a few hours of it, I assumed he was probably going to survive the night–although his chances of survival surely would have been higher if he had a CPAP machine… That dude was LOUD!

I tried ear plugs, but I still couldn’t even get close to sleeping. So I took my bag and pad and went outside to sleep on the deck. After that I slept soundly enough that I didn’t hear the bear that rummaged through the trash overnight. It couldn’t have been more than 15 feet away from where I was trying to sleep.

It’s been just a little over 24 hours since I started the Doxycycline cycle. Doctor indicated i should start seeing improvements within 24-48 hours. I’ve spent most of today laid back, with my foot kicked up high, hoping that it’ll help with swelling.

I want to say that I’m starting to feel just a little bit better over the last hour or two, but it’s hard to say. I’m definitely nowhere near a place where I can start back to trail yet. But if I feel better by tomorrow morning then I’ll get a ride back to Brown Gap, where I was picked up yesterday, and start north towards Hot Springs again. If things still aren’t improved tomorrow I’m planning to go into Asheville, NC to get out of here for just a little while. I’m going just a bit stir crazy sitting here, especially as the weather has been mostly good today and all I want to be doing is hiking.

Such is life.

Wormwood.