AT Day 114
Miles Today: 14.53
AT Mile: 1834.1
(Solo Stealth Tent Site)

I slept in a shelter with five other hikers last night. One of them was a section hiker that I’m going to call “Dude.” He’s been a weird character in just about every interaction that I’ve had with him so far. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing–I’m sure plenty of people might say the same about me.
Out first interaction was at the Hikers Welcome Hostel, three days ago. We were both staying there, but hadn’t met until I was washing some dishes and I heard this shouting–“Hey, is anybody out there? Can any one hear me?”
I peeked around the corner to see Dude sticking his head out from the shower curtain and trying to catch my attention.
“Hey man–I forgot my towel in the bunk house. Could you go get it for me?”
I told him that it might be funny enough if I refused and just let him streak across the lawn to get it himself but that I’d rather spair us all, and so I walked across to the bunkhouse and retrieved his towel for him.
I’ve passed Dude a half dozen times in the last three days. He’s section hiking, although for the life of me I can’t figure out *where* his section begins and where it ends. All of his answers are long but never seem to contain any actual information. I’ve thought to myself several times that Magoo might be a better trail name for him, but that’s none of my business. The point is that he rambles on whenever I make the mistake of engaging with him, and his rambles seem to go on without destination.
Also, as far as I can tell, he seems to be a moron.
He’s a bit older than me, somewhere in his late 50s or 60s I’d guess, and looks quite a lot like the Milton character from the movie called “Office Space.” He traverses the trail slowly and awkwardly whenever I’ve seen him hiking, and due credit to him for getting out here to catch miles in the first place, but it doesn’t seem that he’s crossed many up to this point from what I can tell.
We keep passing one another because he’s been slack packing and shuttling around from point to point, thus piecing together a long section of the AT over some period of time that I also cannot figure out from the times we’ve talked.
I’d arrived at the shelter about a half hour before him last night, but he went right in and acted like he was about to claim the remaining prime sleep space.
“Um, excuse me,” I said. “Do you think that I could take the space up against the wall tonight, or are you trying to put your stakes on it by standing there already?”
We both looked at one another, then Dude looked away. “Well, I mean…” I could tell that he was trying to find the words to say and avoid confrontation while still claiming that sleep space for himself, which felt pretty obviously claimed before he even arrived. “It’s just that I kind of like sleeping against the wall.”
I grumbled a bit and said that I’d just sleep down below on the bottom sleeping space and nothing else needed to be said about it.
The bottom sleeping space ended up being okay after all. I slept very well. Better than I’ve slept in a week or so. When I woke up to piss Dude was snoring like a freight train, but I always put in ear plugs when I’m sleeping around other hikers. I learned that lesson fifteen hundred miles ago.
But since I was sleeping in a shelter and with other people, I knew that I was going to struggle to get to sleep. So I took a melatonin.
I woke up early this morning to insanely vivid dreams of my ex-fiancé trying to murder me. It was terrifying. It was also familiar in that I continue to have these Kafka nightmares about half the time that I take melatonin and I never noticed that before this trail.
For some reason there felt like there was symbolism in the dream this morning. Like I had never had a dream where she had that look on her face, but it was a look that I had seen on her before we ever broke apart, and in real life. It was a look of absolute hate, set on destruction. It’s hard to describe, but I might spend some time thinking about it from here and find some better words for it if that still feels important later on.
The dreams don’t always stick with me the way that this one did. There’s an image from it stuck in my mind of her pointing a gun at me and firing at me through a window. Like she had decided to kill me and that was all that mattered to her after that decision was made. It’s the look on her face that sticks with me.
It felt too real.
—
While Dude was setting up his sleeping pad and bag last night he made some kind of comment about kids doing drugs. It seemed sort of out of the nowhere, but it was in remark to how many kids and families were at the site we were sharing. Something to the affect that it’s good to see that some kids still get out instead of just sitting at home and getting high all day. The gist of it was that “drugs are bad.” It wasn’t anything new. But he was saying something disparaging and entirely overgeneralized. I shouldn’t have been surprised, knowing what I’ve learned about him this far, but for some reason I made the choice to engage.
“I wonder if you’ve ever been challenged on that, Dude. I wonder if you’ve ever thought that drugs aren’t always so bad as you make them out to be.”
Dude grumbled a bit, then said that he didn’t see how that could be true. “I’ve seen a lot of people do a lot of stupid things when they’re on drugs.”
“Ha! If that’s all we’re basing it on Dude, I’ve seen a lot of people do a lot of stupid shit when they’re *not* on drugs. So by that thinking, not doing drugs is causing these people a serious behavioral problem!”
Dude rolled out his sleeping pad and rested it on top of the air pad that took him about four times longer to blow up than it should have. But I should cut him some slack. He is a moron after all.
“In my experience Dude,” I went on, “when people do stupid shit on drugs, it’s usually the kinds of people who are going to do stupid shit without drugs. Some people are just asshats, man!”
Dude grumbled some more and said that he still disagreed. “Well it didn’t do any good for my son. They really messed my son up. He did a lot of stuff, and now he’s all messed up from drugs.”
I gave some consideration before saying anything, but decided that we’d come this far and there was no sense stopping now. “It might be that your son would have been messed up either way. For what it’s worth Dude, ‘drugs’ have done a lot of good in my life, and if I’d listened to the rule-followers who told me that I was going to lose my mind if I did LSD, then some of the greatest things that have happened in my adult life never would have come to be.”
The comedian Bill Hicks said it best. He said: I think drugs have done some good for us. I really do. And if you don’t think drugs have done us any good, then I want you to do me a favor. I want you to go home tonight and take all your tapes and all your records and all your CDs and burn them! Because the musicians who made all that great music that’s enhanced your life so much throughout the years… reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal fucking high on drugs!
—
This is a theme that’s coming up a lot for me. And it’s not unique to this trail or even this part of the AT necessarally. It might just be that I’m only now recognizing it as something at all.
It’s still a rough idea, so let me play with it. I might not get it onto the page the first time.
But the idea starts with this premise: That people want to hear about my story of the Appalachain Trial; a lot of people follow it and are really engaged. And I think that’s great.
But the problem is that a lot of those same people don’t actually want the story that I have tell. They want the simplistic, romantic, Pocohauntis, one-with-nature story, or something like that. I think that they want “the hills are alive with the sound of music” type stuff. Most of those people who want to know the story don’t want for it to start with one of my best friends dying when we were little kids, or about struggling with suicidal ideation and depression for long chapters of my young adult life. They don’t want the story that involves a lot of psychedelics over the years and that thing that we call “drugs” bringing me a lot more clarity than a lot of other conventional routes.
They want the hills to be alive with the sound of music, and maybe a story of a happy walk through the woods. A lot of them don’t want a story about coming out here for the reasons that I actually came out here for. The story about running away from something back home isn’t as appealing to nanna’s metaphorical church group.
—
We crossed paths again this morning at the first AMC Mountain Hut of the White Mountains. Dude had made some comments about setting his alarm for 3:30 this morning, and I told him that he was absolutely out of his mind. After some persuasion he agreed to set it a bit later but was still packed and out before I ever pulled my earplugs out this morning and started stirring about for myself.
It turns out that he’d been onto trail about three hours before I started this morning. I caught up to him in about an hour. He was sitting at a table at the AMC hut with an empty bowl of eggs and a half a cup of coffee resting in front of him.
He was sitting with another hiker and talking in a big bombastic way about the dangers of the trail south of here. The other hiker was obviously a southbound hiker and he seemed engaged in whatever bullsh*t Dude was spewing.
I walked over and sat down with them, and without waiting even an instant, I went right into it: “Are you fear mongering again, Dude? That’s all I’ve heard from you every time I catch you talking to another hiker!” And it was true. Just about every time I saw him talking to another hiker, he was talking about claims of giant cliff faces, dangerous slippery rocks, impossible climbs, and a variety of other fears that lived somewhere deep inside of his heart.
I have approximately zero patience for fear mongering. In all the ways that I can be, it is my desire to be the anti-fear-munger.
Dude looked over at me and said that it all depends on your level of experience, and I exclaimed–“Exactly! And I don’t think that you need to spread your fears on other hikers just because they scared you man! I keep hearing you do it since the day we met. I don’t mean to be rude man, but you gotta cut that shit out.”
I turned to the southbound hiker. He was young, looked rugged, and other than seeming a little rattled from talking with Dude, he was obviously able bodied enough to take on any of the miles that he had ahead of him from here. “If you’ve made it this far,” I said, “you won’t have any trouble making it down to Hikers Welcome Hostel from here. It’s nothing you haven’t already seen before. I promise.”
—
In spite of the murder dreams, I still slept well last night. The shelter was dark, and I slept with ear plugs, so somehow it wasn’t until 8am when I finally rolled out of bed and started making tea. That’s almost two hours later than normal.
On that note–I’ve been trying to switch back to black tea in the morning instead of coffee every day. As much as I love a cup of coffee, I genuinely feel like tea affects me better. It still wakes me up, but it doesn’t make me jittery and it doesn’t sometimes make me need to shit my pants. So there’s also that.
Black tea and honey.
—
The trail today has been spectacular. High elevation and alpine! This is what I was promised for so long as the AT traversed uncountable miles of tree tunnel. Up here feels a lot more like something on the CDT or in Colorado. The trail breaks above the tree line, the air is cooler, there’s a breeze, and it actually feels like hiking mountains again. So many of the “mountains” up to here have felt a lot more like “hills.”
It’s been beautiful. And although the climbs are a lot, the trails are good and easy to navigate. All in all it’s a lot easier than the Long Trail was. The vegetation isn’t trying to attack you at every step, the mud isn’t bad, the trail is clear and wide, the climbs have good steps built in, the rocks aren’t so slick… that list could go on.
This morning I got to a lake almost first thing and it had a dock on it. I said to myself that it was a real problem because it was so early in my day still and I got such a late start from camp, but the lake looked so incredibly swimable. And there was only one way to know for sure if it was indeed swimmable, and that was to go swimming.
The water was cold but the view of the mountain while I swam was awesome. Only later did I realize that I was looking up at some of the peaks that I’d be hiking later in the day.
The lake was just outside of the AMC Mountain Hut where I met Dude this morning, so I knew that swimming meant that he was going to catch back up with me, but I don’t put much stock into those kinds of worries. It wasn’t that big of a deal to see him again. He’s slow in the ways that matter, and as such I knew that I could get away from him again without much trouble and if he started talking, it wasn’t hard to talk circles around him. By now I had also come to realize that he might become a character in my story of the Appalachain Trail in how well he represented so many points of societal stupidity. And so here we are…
Dude walked up just as I pulled myself back up onto the dock and out of the water. I started to dry off and told him that it was his turn. “Oh, did you go swim in the lake?” He asked.
I turned to him in astonishment, standing there in just my underpants and soaking wet, water actively running out of my hair and onto the dock. This was the first time that Dude had left me truly dumbfounded to a point where I didn’t know what to say.
“I mean… did you think I just decided to strip down and sun bathe or something? How do you think I got all wet? Did you not literally see me pull myself out of the lake fifteen seconds ago.”
Dude looked at the scene for far too long and I watched some sort of computing taking place behind his eyes. Something was wrong though. It was hard to make sense of how long it took him to put things together.
Finally, and after a lot of time to think about it, he remarked with an “Oh.” And that was the last we spoke to one another today.
—
I hitched at mile 6 of my day into town to get a food resupply. I was picked up by literally the first car to drive by. It worked out so well!
Resupply was expensive and minimal, as it was more of a gas station than a grocery store, but I made it work. I also charged some electronics and ate an ice cream before stepping out to hitch back to trail. It took less than three minutes to catch a ride back. It all worked out too well!
The Frankonian Ridge was like nothing I’ve seen on the AT so far. Climbs were big today, but above tree line it was beautiful. Again, it almost reminds you of some of the miles in the big mountains of the Rockys.
—
I was told by so many people that I need to plan out my hiking of the White Moutains day by day and know where I’m camping every night. I told them that I was going to just wing it and aim for way bigger miles than they were recommending, and so far it’s worked out totally fine.
In fact, I might even say that it’s been more fun going one step at a time and just playing it by ear, as one might say… I hate that saying for reasons that long time readers may understand, but here I am using it still.
Tonight I’m camped in a little tiny opening in the trees that couldn’t fit another tent, even if you tried. It’s cozy! But it fits my tent well. I was thinking that I was going to have to cover another two or three miles of climb and that I’d end up camping at a paid site with a bunch of weekend hikers, but since I found this little site, I’m golden! It was a long wasterless stretch leading up to here and I missed getting water at the last chance I had, so I had to push a lot of dry miles at high elevation this afternoon, but I found water just a half mile back from here.
I’m extremely tired as I come to the end of this as usual. Tomorrow may be a fairly short or maybe a pretty long day. Depends on how well I sleep. Let’s start now.
Night night.
Wormwood.



