AT Day 53
Miles Today: 7.03
AT Mile: 944.7
(An Unnamed Hostel)

Part 1:
I’m not sure how I feel about this place. I’m at a hostel, and the owner is quite nice… but it’s weird. Maybe there’s a reason that I’m the only hiker here. That’s *never* the case with a hiker hostel this time of year. But even the owner made comment that it’s been quiet this week–that she didn’t have anyone staying here last night.
Anyways, my entanglement in this place started about 3 hours ago, when I was trying to get a hitch into town from the trail. It was only a 7 mile drive, and I tried hitching for a few minutes before texting the hostel to see if they offer rides.
“Was that you standing at the intersection of 211?” I received in response to my text.
I had to check my maps before texting back that indeed that’s where I was.
“It’s going to be an hour and a half before I can come get you. I just passed you and I’m brining hikers to trail.”
I wrote back that I’d probably find a hitch before then, but thanking her for her help.
Then she replied, “I’m turning around to get you. You’re coming on a ride to such-and-such-a-town, then I’ll bring you to the hostel.”
That already rubbed me the wrong way, but I went along with it, figuring that I have extra time to burn before I need to get to Harper’s Ferry on Friday, and hoping with all my heart that whoever was on the other end of these texts wasn’t a creepy weirdo who I was about to spend 2 hours with.
When she arrived, she was not a creepy weirdo. Rather, she’s a very nice, older lady who runs this hiker hostel and has been doing so for the last 10 years. And I was glad to have a ride into town… but town was 8 miles away, and she was about to take me on a 2 hour tour of northern Virginia while she dropped off two other hikers way up trail.
That was kind of annoying, but again, she was nice and drove carefully (unlike some other rides I’ve been given on this hike!). The trouble was, much of the conversation felt scripted. The hostel owner had a slant to her that I see a lot out here. It says, “Stick with me kid, because I know these parts, and I can get you through.” It assumes that everyone passing through is helpless, lost, and sure to find failure if they don’t have the good fortune of finding said protagonist.
Forgive me if I’m going overboard, but it’s how I felt in the 2 hours we spent, driving to my destination that I could have walked to in as much time.
She also felt a little bit like a walking, talking self-help-book. She had lots of quotes and narrations that she gave, and the one or two times that I tried interjecting questions, she just paused somewhat awkwardly, as if I’d just interjected in the middle of a prepared speech.
Later I found that she had studied broadcast and theatre, and that lined up well. And for all the good things that she did have to share, and the things that I learned about the area in our 2 hours, I’ve learned to lose interest in the conversation when I learn that it’s scripted or rehearsed. I want to know what people really have going on. I want to know the HERE AND NOW version of their world. I used to work as a tour guide in Sedona, AZ for 7 years or so, and I saw that a lot amongst my coworkers. We would become scripted to every question you could possibly ask. Nothing was natural anymore–not even when we talked to one another. It wasn’t everyone or all the time, but I saw it in some people often. I tried to watch for it in myself, and caught myself falling into those kinds of patterns often. I still do. I try to stay away from it.
—

Anyways–after two hours we got to her “hostel,” which is really just a big house with a big lawn, and whole bunch of dogs and a cat. I don’t know if it’s the gaggle of dogs or the cat that is making all the dander inside, but it’s bad enough that it makes my head hurt and my eyes itch. I’ve stepped outside to write, but there’s a lady on a lawnmower just in front of me, so that’s kind of chaos too.
More complaining…. some people just can’t be pleased… maybe I’m one of them.
For all the complaining, I want to say again, the hostel owner is very sweet, quite knowledgeable about the area, and has been very nice to me. But this dog dander and that 2 hour ride threw me off.
Whatever. At least I got shower and laundry.
—
A short note on the psychedelic thing.
Today is my third day without them. Goddam, I feel the need to emphasize that this is not at all related to addiction or anything of the like. Using the psychedelic tools that I’ve been using on trails has not been a “pleasurable” or “addictive” experience. On the contrary, it was an extraordinary challenge to undertake the experiment in consciousness that I went through in those first 50 days of the trail.
I did want to take some time off to recalibrate, reassess, and recenter after 50 consecutive days in that realm.
My observation on this third day–my brain seems to be grateful for the reset. I do feel like my feet are bit more firmly planted on the ground than I had up to now. My thinking has been clearer, my memory seems to be just a little better, and my overall vibration appears to be more level–less extreme up and downs.
To be absolutely clear however–I am still an absolute and total mad-man. That of course is in my nature and at my foundation. But within the madness, I do find myself more settled this week.
Like I wrote in previous journals, I’ll meet Boots and Molly in Harpers Ferry, and it’s important to me that my biochemistry be leveled out for that. I don’t take lightly the fact that she’s driving 16 hours round trip to spend the weekend together, and it’s important to me to… well… as I said it before, have my feet planted more firmly upon the ground.
Part of the reason that I needed to come to this hostel to recharge electronics is because I’ve been so in contact with Boots as I’ve walked the ridgeline of Shenandoah National Park–both by text and phone call. Weird time we live in where we have this high level of connectivity, even on the trail. We’re both seeing this weekend as an opportunity to play, but also to get to know one another more deeply, and see if the fantasy of following one another after the trail still makes sense to either of use.
I think I’ve mentioned that she’s proposed coming to Maine. There’s more to that as well, but I’ll leave it there for now.
I like her. At least here and for now. She expresses the same. The weekend will let us see what depth is in that attraction.
After the weekends with Boots I’ll so back to using psychedelic tools on the hike. I won’t be doing daily, as I did for the first 50 days of the trail, as I’ve already been there. I’ll talk more about that in the coming week.
—
Only hiked 7 miles to get to the gap where unnamed hostel owner picked me up, and I was pretty sure that I’d be going back to trail today, but at this rate, I may stay here. I need to get my electronics charged and my food restocked before going back to trail, so it’ll be at least 2 more hours, so I wouldn’t get to trail until at least 5pm. Honestly however, that sounds good to me. I don’t want to be lingering around this place tomorrow. Goddamn… I feel like I need to say it again that this place isn’t bad, but my head hurts from the dander, and I just think I want to be on trail. It’s weird being at a hostel when I’m literally the only hiker here.
At least the dogs are nice. But I think they might need a bath. So did I when I arrived though, so no shade on them.
After this I have one more wayside in Shenandoah National Park, which means one more opportunity for a 1,400 calorie milkshake and $4 butterfinger bar.
I need to decide if I’m going to push all the way to Harper’s from here (82 miles) or if I’m going to try to hit the trail town that’s 28 miles up trail from here. Probably the latter, as I just don’t want to carry extra food weight if I don’t have to, and like I keep saying, I don’t need to do big miles right now. After Boots leaves however, I wonder if I’ll stick with these 20-25 mile days or if I’ll start punching miles again. We’ll see.
That’s it for now.
I need to get some food.
Hate to say it, but y’boi might be doing a McDonalds dash this time around. I remember it made me feel shit last time I did it on trail, but we all have our vices, and I feel like I’ve almost earned it… wait… I only hiked 7 miles today.
Whatever.

—
Part 2:
My kidnapping by hostel owner happened at 11 this morning. It’s now 6:15 and I’m still at the hostel–partly due to circumstance, and partly by my own will.
I got all cleaned, charged all my electronic, got refed, got resupplied.
The hostel owner asked me a couple of hours ago if we could “wait for so-and-so to get out of the shower before we go to Walmart for resupply.” I said of course, then 90 minutes later, she stepped out and asked if I knew how to drive a Prius. Strange question, but not so strange within the context of everything else that today’s been.
There was some back and forth before I finally said, “I’m going to be 7 minutes in McDonalds and 8 minutes in Walmart.”
“Then let’s go.”
She drove me there and back, quoted me a lower price than it was worth for all the help she’s given me today (possibly factoring in the kidnapping and my time expense, but I doubt it; I think that she just undercharges in some situations?), and waited for me while I got dinner and resupply. She actually needed some things from Walmart as well, so I didn’t feel so bad about having her make the trip.
On the way back she mentioned that she didn’t know how she was going to get me back up to the trail, since she just remembered that she has a dinner reservation at 6pm and it was 5:30, so that’s why I’m still here, typing at the same table where I started writing earlier. The lawn mower is no longer running. The dogs are still barking. The dander is still thick.
Two other hikers arrived a few hours ago. A couple, from what I can tell. That’s usually the case when you see a guy and a girl hiking together. Either that, or he’s trying to make them into a couple–we can pretend that’s not what’s happening, but I’m over the pretense of acting otherwise.
They both seemed kind of tired when they rolled in. They were like a lot of hikers I meet out here. They remind me of myself on the PCT and some of the CDT. I was always just so warn down. I don’t feel that way on the AT though. Especially not now that I’ve lowered my miles and started to prioritize on Smiles instead 🙂
But I mention them just because they’re the only “social” opportunity here at the hostel now that the owner has gone, and I don’t know how to talk to the barking dogs. They’re up in their bedroom resting, from what I can tell. So it’s just me here again. Again alone in this trail. Again contemplative.
The hostel owner and I talked more on the drive back to Walmart. I feel like I was too harsh on her earlier. She is well intentioned, and I could see that from the beginning. But she’s also like so many people are–she’s living in the groove that she’s spent the last 60+ years carving for herself. She follows those same patterns. She has safety and security in the things that are familiar. And I can’t blame her for wanting to tell the wandering souls of the trail about “how it is” and “how to really live.” For how rote some of her talk was, she has some good stuff in there. I even write some things down in my notes after she dropped me back at the hostel and before I packed my food.
But my food’s packed now, my electronics are charged, and my belly is full. I want to try to hitch back to trail here in a bit.
If it doesn’t go well however, I’m just going to let it go and camp here for the night, then try to get back to trail at sunrise tomorrow. Even if I’m at trail by 9 tomorrow, and even if I do stop at the last wayside (which of course I’m going to do), I could still break 30 miles before sundown. Not that I need to… just sayin.
With my mind in the clouds…
—
Part 3:
It was frustrating. One of the worst feelings on a thru hike. The feeling of being reliant on other people, and having important variables outside of your control. Thru hiking produces this illusion that you’re independent and that you don’t need anyone else’s help. It’s an illusion, of course, but we go with it, knowingly or otherwise. Then, when we get to town, and need a ride in, a shower, directions to the local grocer, a ride to McDonalds, a ride back to trail, a place to charge electronics… all the sudden we’re helpless.
I enjoyed the down time today. Most of it I spent writing. I tried laying in the sun and just relaxing in the grass, but thoughts of ticks kept me from being able to let go. I must have done 500 pushups today. I’m really not exaggerating. 50x at a time. All during my time at the hostel, mostly while I was waiting for a ride either to resupply, or back to trail.
The hostel owner offered a ride back to trail when she got back from dinner, but admitted that wasn’t going to be until 7:30 or 8pm. She suggested hitching, but I hate doing it. Never know if it’s a waste of time or if it’s going to work out. Then, I hate having to awkwardly act interested in the conversation with the driver, because at least half the time it’s not interesting, but I feel obliged to make him feel heard in exchange for riding me back to trial.
I paced back and forth between the driveway and the road, thumbing while a few cars drove by, then settling on going back up to the porch and calling it a day. On my third time down at the road, an old pickup truck pulled over.
It was a younger kid–maybe late 20s or early 30s. Hard to tell, based on how he looked and what he later shared with me. He was driving a truck so old that it barely made it up the slight incline to the pass where I needed to get to trail. All along the way he had a cigarette hanging out the window, and he puffed on it softly while it became shorter, along with the distance we had left in our ride.
At first I wasn’t sure he was even going to talk. He barely looked at me when I got in. But then he asked if I was hiking the Appalachian Trail, and where I started. You’d be amazed how many people out here have no idea some of the basic details of the trail that’s literally within 10 miles of where they live. You tell them that you started in Georgia, and half of them act as if they didn’t know it went farther than the next county over.
I told him a bit about my hike and he said that he used to work up in Shenandoah National Park, and he would give hikers rides when he’d see them back then. He told me he didn’t mind giving me a ride up, even though that’s not where he was headed.
It surprised me when I learned that the pass was out of his way, especially in light of how the truck struggled to get there.
I don’t even know how, but the conversation progressed and he told me that he used to be addicted to drugs, but that he’d been sober for awhile now, and that his life was going a lot better since then. He said he went to treatment and I asked what his DOC was. He told me it was meth, and I shared that I’d never tried it but that I’d read that it was bad bad bad to try and get off of. I told him about some of my demons in exchange. Not because I precieved an expectation, but because I wanted to share common ground.
He told me that he was over 230 days clean now, and I said “Fuck Yeah!”
He dropped me off at the pass and I started hiking back up the AT.
—
Only made it a mile and a half before I reached a side trail to shelter.
I never stay at shelters, but like I’ve said before–the national park is very sparse of camp sites. I read on my maps that there were many of them here though, so decided to call the day done at 8pm, and I wandered in here.
There were already hikers here. One whom I’d met before, and several whom I had not. The one I met before was the one who had a very similar to my own at Trail Days. It was good to see him again. The other AT hiker at the shelter was the first I’ve met who is finishing his Triple Crown this year with the AT–the same situation as my own. I’d heard that there were some others finishing this year along with me, but I’d yet to meet any of them.
Like most of the hikers I meet out here who have long trail experience before the AT, all of his trails have been since I finished my last long hike. In most people’s eyes, I’m sort of an “old school” thru hiker. People sometimes double take when I tell them that I hiked the PCT in 2015. “Wow–a long time ago,” some of them have remarked.
For fun I timed how long it took me to set my tent tonight, now that I have practice with it. Just under 5 minutes. Then, setting my pad and bag and all that jazz was another 6 minutes. So 11 minutes from dropping pack to being set to sleep. That used to be 45, and I’ve struggled to keep it under 20 for a lot of my hiking.
Oh what irony that I’d get this down so smooth right alongside my deciding that I don’t need to or want to make as many miles anymore. Of course it would be.
I’m toying with the idea of punching miles tomorrow. No good reason, other than I want to, and maybe because I miss the feeling of a 30+. I’ll see how it feels. I’m carrying a lot of food out of that last town, and hoping it’ll sustain to Harper’s Ferry. So it’ll be a big day plus weight. But I’m a big boy now.
Again though. One day at a time. And when that doesn’t work, one step at a time.
Breathe.
Wormwood.









